There are places in Nigeria that are easy to visit. You book a hotel, drive for a few hours, take pictures, eat something nice and head home. Gashaka Gumti National Park is not quite that kind of place.

Spread across Taraba and Adamawa states along the Cameroon border, Gashaka Gumti covers 6,731 sq km, according to the National Park Service, making it Nigeria’s largest national park. UNESCO gives the demarcated property as 5,907 sq km, reflecting differences in how the protected area is measured.

The park was created in 1991 by bringing together the former Gashaka and Gumti game reserves, which were established in the 1970s. Since then, it has remained one of Nigeria’s most important wildlife and conservation areas, with a landscape that changes dramatically across its enormous territory.

One moment you are looking at open savannah; elsewhere, the landscape rises into thick forest and mountains. At its highest point, Gangirwal on the Chappal Waddi plateau reaches 2,419 metres, making it the highest point in Nigeria.

That variety is what makes Gashaka Gumti particularly interesting for anyone willing to make the journey. It is a place for hiking, mountaineering, birdwatching, wildlife viewing, fishing and camping, but it is also a place where the sheer scale of the landscape is part of the experience.

What makes Gashaka Gumti so special?

Start with the landscape. The National Park Service identifies five ecological zones across the park: Guinea Savannah, Sudan Savannah, lowland rainforest, montane rainforest and montane grassland. UNESCO also describes a combination of dry wooded savannah, lowland rainforest, montane grassland and montane cloud forest.

This means Gashaka Gumti does not look the same everywhere. The southern part is particularly mountainous, with Gangirwal and Chappal Waddi rising above the surrounding landscape. Another notable peak, Chappal Hendu, reaches about 2,030 metres.

The mountains are also important beyond the scenery. The park is a major watershed for the Taraba River, the largest tributary of the Benue, so its forests and waterways play an important role in the wider ecosystem.

Then there are the animals. UNESCO records more than 100 mammal species, including 11 primate species. The National Park Service lists chimpanzees, elephants, buffalo, hippopotamus, leopard, giant eland, giant forest hog, mountain reedbuck and African golden cat among the wildlife found in the park.

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For wildlife lovers, however, the Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzee is one of the biggest reasons Gashaka Gumti matters. The endangered subspecies is found in Nigeria and Cameroon, and UNESCO identifies the park as protecting its largest remaining population.

You will need patience if you want to see one. This is not a conventional zoo where an animal is likely to appear when you arrive. Gashaka Gumti is huge, the terrain can be difficult, and wildlife moves freely through the forest.

Birdwatchers are likely to have an easier time finding something interesting. The National Park Service records 477 bird species in the park, including the African fish eagle, bateleur eagle, royal eagle, secretary bird and hooded vulture. The park is also recognised as an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area.

There is plenty beyond birds and mammals. The park has 55 recorded fish species, more than 20 reptile species and at least 300 butterfly species. UNESCO also records more than 1,000 plant species.

What can you actually do there?

If your idea of a holiday is lying beside a pool all day, Gashaka Gumti may not be your first choice. If you enjoy being outdoors, however, there is plenty to keep you busy.

Hiking and mountaineering are among the biggest attractions, particularly around Gangirwal and Chappal Waddi. Reaching Nigeria’s highest point is no casual stroll, so anyone planning the climb needs proper preparation and should make arrangements with the park authorities.

Wildlife watching is another major activity. Visitors can explore parts of the park with guides and look for primates, birds and other wildlife. The National Park Service specifically lists primate watching in Kwano Forest among the attractions.

There are also opportunities for fishing, camping, picnicking and swimming. Mayo Kam and Gashaka rivers are identified as fishing locations, while the park has waterfalls and hot springs, including Kiri Waterfalls and Matashirip Hot Springs.

And if you are interested in history, the park has a few surprises. On Gashaka Hill are the remains of a German fort and garrison dating to before 1918, including the graves of German soldiers. There is also an English fort near Gashaka village linked to the British Frontier Force.

Other attractions listed by the National Park Service include Dumti Lake, Zanti Hills, the Toungo iron smelting site and Sangurditi shrines.

The accommodation is basic compared with what you would find at a conventional Nigerian holiday resort, but that is part of the appeal. The National Park Service lists 20 chalets at Serti Tourist Camp, 10 at Toungo Base Station and 20 in Gashaka village, as well as primitive campsites at places including Mayo Kam, Jiman and Yakuba.

Getting there also requires planning. The park is remote, and the best route depends on the section you want to visit. The National Park Service identifies Yola and Jalingo as the closest airports, with routes also passing through places such as Serti, Ganye and Toungo.

Cynthia Nwanonyiri