Skin bleaching, one might say, is as old as time. Way before it became a commercial industry, variations of it existed across civilisations, from ancient Egypt to Asia, where lighter skin was often associated with status and privilege. But in the last century, it has become a structured business. Production has scaled, and skin lightening has moved from home remedies into shelves, laboratories, and eventually, global markets.

By the time modern cosmetics took hold, the practice had already found a strong footing in Africa. Today, the continent records some of the highest usage rates globally, with studies consistently showing that a significant proportion of women use skin-lightening products, often driven by social perceptions and the promise of upward mobility associated with lighter skin.

A growing market, close to home

In places like Senegal, for instance, research has shown that more than one in four women were actively using skin-lightening creams at a given time, with many more having used them at some point. In some parts of sub-Saharan Africa, estimates suggest usage rates of around 25 percent or higher, a reflection of how deeply embedded and sucked in the practice has become in everyday beauty culture.

Nigeria sits at the centre of this conversation. Various reports, including those referenced by global health bodies, have repeatedly pointed to the country as one of the largest markets for skin-lightening products, where the practice cuts across age, class, and increasingly, gender.

The power of language

That shift in language is where the real reinvention begins. The products themselves have not disappeared. What has changed is how they are framed. These products were plainly called bleaching creams, but are now packaged as brightening, toning, or glowing. The language has moved closer to skincare, distancing itself from the stigma that bleaching once carried, while holding on to the same promise of a lighter and more even complexion.

Regulation, reform, and reinvention

As concerns grew around the safety of certain ingredients such as mercury and high-dose hydroquinone, regulations tightened across various regions, forcing manufacturers to adapt. In response, the industry did what it does best. It rebranded. Formulations became more complex, and packaging became more refined, sprinkling terms leaning on dermatological language and claims of skin health rather than colour change.

At the same time, the market expanded. Globally, the skin-lightening industry has grown into a multi-billion-dollar sector, sustained not only by demand but by its ability to evolve with culture.

In Nigeria, this shift is easy to miss if one is not paying attention. But the underlying desire, shaped by years of colourism, media influence, and social perception, remains largely the same. The practice did not completely disappear; instead, it became easier to explain and easier to market, which feels less confronting.

Also Read: Nigerians are returning to homegrown skincare brands

Stronger oversight and enforcement

Regulatory bodies such as the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC) have made efforts to restrict harmful substances like mercury and excessive hydroquinone. But enforcement remains uneven. Markets still carry unregistered products, and informal distribution channels make regulation difficult.

Stronger monitoring and stricter penalties for non-compliance would help close the gap between policy and reality. Clearer labelling standards and public awareness campaigns can also make it easier for consumers to understand what they are buying.

There is also a role for manufacturers and retailers. Branding and responsibility should go hand-in-hand. Products marketed as “brightening” or “toning” should be transparent about their ingredients and effects, rather than relying on language that blurs the line between care and alteration.

And it will help if individuals understand product ingredients and question marketing language. Not every skincare routine is about bleaching, but not every “glow” is neutral either. Being informed allows people to make choices that are not only about appearance, but also about health and long-term well-being.

Anita Chinedu