By 6 am in Katangua Market, Lagos, traders are already dragging heavy clothing bales across narrow walkways while buyers gather around waiting for the “first selection.” Somebody spots a vintage Arsenal jersey and grabs it immediately. Another person is searching for oversized denim jackets because TikTok says they are trending again. This is not a small side market anymore.

Across Nigeria, the second-hand clothing business popularly known as Okrika has quietly grown into one of the country’s biggest informal fashion economies, powered by rising living costs, social media culture, and a generation of young Nigerians trying to build businesses from whatever opportunities they can find.

For years, Okrika was mostly associated with survival shopping. Now, it sits in a completely different position. It has become fashion, hustle, internet culture, and economic adaptation all at once. And the numbers behind Nigeria’s wider clothing market show just how massive the space has become.

According to the National Bureau of Statistics, Nigeria imported over ₦1.06 trillion worth of textile-related products in 2025 alone, reflecting the country’s heavy dependence on imported fashion and garments. At the same time, multiple industry reports continue to rank Nigeria among Africa’s largest second-hand clothing markets.

The naira’s weakness, rising import costs, inflation, and pressure on household income have changed how many Nigerians shop. For a growing number of people, especially students and young workers, thrift fashion is no longer an alternative; it is the realistic option.

Okrika stopped looking like poverty

A major reason the industry has exploded is that the social stigma around thrift fashion has changed dramatically. Years ago, many Nigerians hid the fact that they wore Okrika. Today, some people proudly build their entire aesthetic around it.

Social media helped transform that image. On TikTok and Instagram, thrift sellers now market pieces as “vintage,” “Y2K,” “streetwear,” or “archive fashion.” Young Nigerians who once avoided second-hand clothing now actively search for oversized jackets, retro denim, old football jerseys, cargo pants, and branded sneakers inside thrift markets.

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The same “bend-down select” culture that people mocked years ago now drives online fashion trends. In many cases, buyers are specifically hunting for international brands like Nike, Adidas, Levi’s, Zara, Tommy Hilfiger, or Ralph Lauren at prices far lower than retail stores.

Okrika is no longer patronised only by low-income earners. Middle-income Nigerians dealing with rising costs now shop there too, especially in cities like Lagos, Abuja, and Port Harcourt, where fashion remains socially important but retail prices keep climbing. And the pressure is real.

A brand-new pair of jeans in Nigeria today can easily cost between ₦25,000 and ₦60,000, depending on the store and brand. But inside markets like Yaba, Katangua, and Aswani, buyers can still find clean thrift versions selling for far less, which is exactly why more Nigerians are turning to Okrika as fashion becomes increasingly expensive. Fashion naturally adjusts when survival becomes expensive.

The business inside the bales

Behind the clothes themselves is an entire supply chain most people barely notice.

Large bales enter Nigeria through import channels before moving into markets like Katangua, Yaba, Balogun, and Trade Fair in Lagos, alongside major markets in Aba, Kano, Onitsha, and Abuja. Traders buy these bales hoping the quality inside will justify the cost because profitability often depends on getting “first grade” selections that can be resold quickly.

One good bale can contain premium jackets, designer denim, sneakers, handbags, or vintage pieces that resellers immediately flip online at higher prices. And increasingly, the business is moving digital.

A growing number of young Nigerians now operate thrift stores entirely online through Instagram pages, WhatsApp groups, TikTok live sessions, and delivery platforms. Some no longer own physical stores at all. They source directly from markets, photograph selected pieces, and sell to customers across different cities.

For many young entrepreneurs, Okrika has become one of the easiest businesses to start with limited capital. Some begin with just a few pieces before scaling gradually through social media visibility and repeat customers. Others specialise in specific niches like corporate thrift, luxury vintage, sneakers, or plus-size fashion.

Aesthetic thrift pages now function almost like fashion brands, complete with styling videos, model shoots, packaging, and curated drops designed to create urgency among buyers. Today, imported fashion dominates much of the market.

Cynthia Nwanonyiri